A Bowl of Stupid

For the sake of my Kshama (living in the moment), I'll say it only once before moving on:

I am excited and curious and enjoying being here in Sri Lanka, but I actually wish I was still in the Philippines. Yes D, you heard me right, I miss my friends in the Philippines and I'm already thinking of my triumphant return to the islands.

Well, it IS pouring rain here right now as I type, so it's almost like I'm still in the Philippines. I guess that's something, right?

Anyway, moving on to Sri Lanka itself.

I'm currently staying in Ahangama on the southwest coast of the Island, at this great hotel/guesthouse called Villa Gaetano.

However, it's been very hard for me to leave the comforts of his my luxury hotel room right on the water (running me about US$12/nite). I was planning on moving to the owner's lower priced place off the beach about 100 meters down the road and about 100 meters off the beach (running US$5/nite, but still infinitely better than just about any hotel I stayed in in Thailand - it's just not right on the beach, like the Villa), but I can't seem to get up the energy to move. Plus, the restaurant is here, and I can't get enough rice/curry and roti prata.

Sri Lanka is located to the south of India in the Indian Ocean and gets the same swells as the Indonesian islands. The south west of the country is the most popular destination for travelling surfers — being cheap, safe and having access to decent waves.

Unlike my other sojerns abroad — i.e., Indo, the Philippines, Thailand, etc. — I made a point to arrange for transport from the only (non-military) airport on the island (which is located in Negambo, about 25 km north of the capital of Colombo).

I did so for several reasons. The first reason is that I've heard it's virtually impossible to get anywhere here without private transport. Second is the fact that the area is not the safest in the world — indeed, Sri Lanka just negated the cease fire agreement with the Tamil rebels after 10-12 people, including civilians (I'm not sure at the time of this writing) were killed by an explosion in Colombo just the day before I arrived here.

After seeing the military presence in Colombo and the airport (which itself was bombed by the rebel group last summer), I'm very glad I pre-arranged the travel — regardless of the cost. I didn't want to become another statistic, so I thought it prudent to pre-book a ride for the 120-130 km trip southeast down the coast to the relatively safe area of Weligama and Ahangama, where I'm staying now.

I say 'reletively safe' because, while there are army roadblocks checking cars in the area, there has been little threat down here by the militant rebel group 'the Tamil Tigers' — which has been waging an insurgent war in Sri Lanka for the better part of the last 20 years.

I also use that term because there are still a great number of reminders that this entire area was absolutely DEVESTATED by a Tsunami only 3 years ago. In fact, I inadvertently visited a hotel/guesthouse from where one of the most well published videos of the tidal wide was taken. I walked in and thought 'this place looks earily familiar' … then I found out why about 10 minutes later.

This place just got FUCKED. UP.

Truly, it's probably the fist place I've been to where there is palatable prescense of the government military, the UN, and UNICEF — all in the same 20 meter radius.

Having come here simply to surf (more or less), it is just a bit unsettling … but I'm sure I'll get used to it (unless, as there is now talk might happen, the violence escalates and the entire country falls into chaos).

I spent yesterday getting situated, hitching a ride with a fellow lodger up to the town of Galle to get money and a pair of flip-flops (not a problem, as the Sti Lankans LOVE their sandals).

As for Galle itself, there's no beach or tourist draws, but much like other areas throughout Southeast Asia there are remnants of Dutch settlement (read: colonization), back when the Dutch were more into conquest than chocolate. The only interesting item is the Old Dutch Fort, which reminded me very much of my trip to Melaka, Malaysia (which was also a Dutch Fort/Port).

At this point, it may be useful if I could throw out, free association, a list of comments describing my experience here so far:

Driving — absolutely INSANITY (and this is really saying something considering that I've experienced driving in Indonesia, Manila, Cambodia, and Miami).

Security — as mentioned above, the military is everywhere … all with automatic weapons at the ready.

Tsunami — remnants of the destruction are everywhere, despite the rebuilding and the NGO cars all over the place. It's somewhat disconcerting and more than just a bit sad, to say the least.

Dogs — yes, there are beaten-up and stray dogs in most third world countries, but I've never seen anything like the condition of the strays here. Don't ask, you don't want to know. Trust me.

Crowded — coming from Siargao Island, which itself I actually found crowded in comparison to Roti, Indonesia (one of my favorite places in the world), this place is absolute insanity. There are paved roads, buses, trains, tuk-tuks, and all the traffic and people those things infer. Granted, it's not the mayhem that defines Colombo, but I'm used to staying in villiages/towns where you can almost literally meet everyone there. Here, there are just a bunch of beach towns right after one another. It sorta reminds me of Neew Jersey … only with saner drivers.

Driving — did I mention they're all fucking crazy drivers here?

Food — thank GOD for some good local cuisine. I love the peeps in the Philippines, but god help me, their food is absolutely awful.

Appearance — okay, here's showing my vanity and caucation based values, but I was shocked to see the local ideal of beauty, which is extraordinarily 'different' from what I'm used to. I was especially shocked considering the Sri Lankans I've met before in my life are some very good looking people. But here? Ehh, not so much.

Kindness & Hospitality — coming here straight from the Philippines, I'm having a hard time adjusting to the immediate show of friendliness by most locals towards westerners. Again, it could be an act, but I haven't felt that just yet. Time will tell.

Poverty — nuff said.

Driving — absolute insanity. I was initially considering hiring/renting out a car for the month. But now? Fuck that, man. I'll use a tuk-tuk.

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