Comments on: Recognition (Guanacaste Memoirs) — Part II http://abowlofstupid.com/surfing/recognition-guanacaste-memoirs-%e2%80%94-part-ii/ Stupid Is As Stupid Eats Sun, 7 Sep 2008 07:41:56 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.0.2 by: A Bowl Of Stupid http://abowlofstupid.com/surfing/recognition-guanacaste-memoirs-%e2%80%94-part-ii/#comment-2578 Wed, 25 Apr 2007 01:46:10 +0000 http://abowlofstupid.com/surfing/recognition-guanacaste-memoirs-%e2%80%94-part-ii/#comment-2578 Slouch, thanks kid; I'm glad you like them - truly. It's nice to share the stoke with another surfer. And yes, yes, yes, it's time for you to get a new board. I was only gone for about 2 weeks and a bunch of people have told me I look about 10 years younger because I was out in the water so much. At our age (I'm 37), it's a stoke you really should keep in touch with. As for the board, the funboard was okay, but yeah, it was an absolute pain in the ass to get out in those conditions - you obviously can't duck dive, and the typical longboard "flip-over" doesn't work so great either (especially since it's an epoxy and weighs close to nothing). Blah. I'll write more about it, but after those first few days (and after I got my mojo back), I switched down to the shorter gun for the remainder of the trip, which was awesome. And I should have brought a 6'6" fish instead (which I'm probably going take to Indonesia). It's funny, I started out on short boards, then moved to long boards in my mid-20's and I now have the urge to more back down to short boards. Slouch, thanks kid; I’m glad you like them - truly. It’s nice to share the stoke with another surfer.

And yes, yes, yes, it’s time for you to get a new board. I was only gone for about 2 weeks and a bunch of people have told me I look about 10 years younger because I was out in the water so much. At our age (I’m 37), it’s a stoke you really should keep in touch with.

As for the board, the funboard was okay, but yeah, it was an absolute pain in the ass to get out in those conditions - you obviously can’t duck dive, and the typical longboard “flip-over” doesn’t work so great either (especially since it’s an epoxy and weighs close to nothing). Blah.

I’ll write more about it, but after those first few days (and after I got my mojo back), I switched down to the shorter gun for the remainder of the trip, which was awesome.

And I should have brought a 6′6″ fish instead (which I’m probably going take to Indonesia). It’s funny, I started out on short boards, then moved to long boards in my mid-20’s and I now have the urge to more back down to short boards.

]]> by: Slouchmonkey http://abowlofstupid.com/surfing/recognition-guanacaste-memoirs-%e2%80%94-part-ii/#comment-2573 Tue, 24 Apr 2007 21:53:13 +0000 http://abowlofstupid.com/surfing/recognition-guanacaste-memoirs-%e2%80%94-part-ii/#comment-2573 Man, I'm enjoying these posts! That swell looks nice and clean. I started surfing at age 7 and swore I'd do it all my life. At 35, the past few years, I haven't been in the water at all. Sad, really. I moved and sold all my boards. 6'4" to 10'. Recently, whenever I feel stressed or upset or pissed, I start visualizing memories from the line up. I think it's time to go get a new board. Was it easier to paddle into the larger wave on the fun board? Man, I’m enjoying these posts! That swell looks nice and clean. I started surfing at age 7 and swore I’d do it all my life. At 35, the past few years, I haven’t been in the water at all. Sad, really. I moved and sold all my boards. 6′4″ to 10′.

Recently, whenever I feel stressed or upset or pissed, I start visualizing memories from the line up. I think it’s time to go get a new board.

Was it easier to paddle into the larger wave on the fun board?

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