Apr 02 2008

Living In the Middle of The Ocean With No Future and No Past

surfergirl.JPG
(A picture taken of the break last year in front of the Karang Nyimbor Hotel — where I’m staying in Southern Sumatra)

I’m torn between my desire to detail for those interested in visiting the Krui area of Sumatra (where I currently am), and my desire to just talk about my own shit (like usual). So I’ll compromise and do a little bit of both.

There are several breaks in the Krui area — comprised of an exposed beach and reef that has good, reliable surf all throughout the dry season of March through October. One of the best features of the area is that it’s one of the only places in Indonesia that has some decent right-handed breaks (Indonesia is known as ‘land of the lefts’).

As noted previously, I am staying about an hour south of Krui town, in a small fishing village called Ujung Bocur. The entire area is an absolutely idyllic tropical setting.

When it’s working properly, the wave here (a.k.a. Sumatra’s longest left) is a quality long point reef. It’s a long, walled up wave with three connecting sections that breaks on all tides and provides some amazing rides of up to 1/2 a kilometer long.

Unfortunately, I’ve had only a few truly decent days of surf in the past week — it was initially a bit inconsistent due to a cyclone that was sitting off the northwestern coast of Australia (Cyclone Pancho — and no, I’m not kidding about the name).

As noted previously, there are several other minor issues with the area — all of which have been EASILY outweighed by only one (1) awesome day in the surf. The biggest issue is that, although there are some amazing surf spots all up and down the coast, most are very far apart, requiring a lot of time on the road, and you need to get to them before the afternoon wind gets up.

The second biggest problem is also probably one of the best features of the area — it’s isolation and difficulty to reach. I did it the ‘expensive’ way — traveling direct from Singapore to Jakarta (in West Java), then sleeping in the Jakarta Airport Hotel as part of the mandatory overnight stay (US$100 — an absolute FORTUNE in Indo Rupiah), then the morning flight from Jakarta to Bandar Lampung (in southern Sumatra), and then a privately hired ‘bemo’ (taxi) to drive the final 5-6 hours around the volcano’s to Krui.

  • The total travel time to Krui from Singapore (including layovers, etc.), which is only about 250 miles away, is 2 days.
  • The nearest Bank/ATM machine — 2-2.5 hours away by taxi/motorbike (3-4 hours if by public bus).
  • English is hardly spoken or understood ANYWHERE in the area (except by the few ex-pat surfers living/running surf camps in the area).

Again, these inconveniences are becoming easily overlooked after only one day of getting treated like royalty by the guys over at Karang Nyimbor Hotel. The place is probably somewhat similar to how Bali was a few decades ago — no huge crowds of panting, overage Aussies, no huge shopping markets, no nothing, really.

And now the wind is dropping — the surf is picking up — the weather is gorgeous. Fucking ‘ell, man. It’s absolutely awesome. THIS is the shit I came out here for!! I’m going surfing for a bit, I’ll see y’all in a few days (or so…).

P.S. AmTrust Direct Bank STILL sucks ass!! Fuck, I can’t even get onto the AmTrust website anymore. Could someone back in the States try to get on and see if it’s just cuz they’re blocking overseas customers (i.e., ME) or if the entire Bank is gone. Thanks all!

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3 responses so far

3 Responses to “Living In the Middle of The Ocean With No Future and No Past”

  1. Girl With Curious Hairon 03 Apr 2008 at 3:17 am

    The link works, so they’re probably doing their best to keep you out of their site. The good news is, if your money is in a savings account with them it will gain high interest before they steal it.

    Oh, and their 24 hr. number is 888-228-8146. In case you have phone access and don’t know who to call Stateside.

    Hope this helps.

  2. Mannyon 03 Apr 2008 at 2:17 pm

    Well with, um, “waves” like that there it’s no wonder you’re having a blast.

    Is that saltwater on her or is she just happy to see you?

  3. Philly Girlon 03 Apr 2008 at 5:33 pm

    Hey Matt,

    The site works fine directly from the link you provided. On their web site is a girl sitting in front of a computer who looks like just Kyra Knightly with a big smile on her face. I think she is withdrawing money from her account. Just thought you’d like to know what the site looked like. Glad to help ;)

    ME