Apr 08 2008
If You Don’t Claim Your Humanity, You Will Become A Statistic
I'm still here surfing in Krui, Sumatra. There have been a couple nice swells that pushed through, providing for some long and tiring sessions over the past week. Nothing much to report after that, other than that I continue to have a GREAT time - I continue to work on my surfing skills (never all that great to begin with, but getting better with each passing day, month, and year), and I got a pretty fucking sweet stand-up barrel this morning in the last of the latest swell.
It's days, weeks, and months like this that make me wonder how the hell ANYONE can sit behind a desk for 8-10 hours a day and still retain any semblance of his or her humanity.
Come out and play, you guys — you will NOT regret it.
Matt,
Enjoy your time and never forget how wonderful it was or continues to be.
Phillygirl
Matt:
I resemble that remark. Well, I’ve hit 26 days of skiing/riding so far this winter and plan to hit 30. 3 days last week. Not bad for a desk jockey, I’d have to say. Plus, I bought a boat and will surf behind it all summer without having to paddle. A fat and lazy man’s taste of the curl.
Get a camera out there and get some pics of you in a barrell. You saying you had a stand up barrell ride is like saying you caught a 10 pound trout out of a stream. Possible, but not likely. Proof my friend.
Take care and kick some more sea urchin ass!
Brook
D, I love ya’ kid, but I really think yer missing the whole point. As for my barrel(s), again, I love ya’, but I aint got anything to prove to you or noone else - just like Philly pointed out.
Have fun in the snow. Peace out.
Take it from the Phillygirls who just started a new job with another Fortune 500 company or was that a cult I just joined. I am making canned statments on my goals and objectives to Inspire, Impact, Innovate, …………fuck I am ready to implode. I’m just waiting for them to pass around the kool-aide, ask us to wear matching outfits and sneakers so that we can get ready to check out all at once. Don’t listen to them Matt. Stay where you are.