A Bowl of Stupid

So I'm feeling pretty stoked right now. I did something today that officially qualifies as being one of the coolest things I've done since moving to Thailand:

I took a trip to the most famous temple in the world for 'Yant tattooing' — Wat Bang Phra, in Nakhon Chaysri, Nakhon Pathom Province, Thailand (it's said a tattoo from this temple can protect from danger or even death — and given my track record, you can see why I went there).

For those who are unaware (myself included, to some extent):

Sak yant (Thai: สักยันต), also called yantra tattooing, is a form of sacred tattooing practiced in Southeast Asian countries, including Cambodia and Thailand. Sak yant are normally tattooed by Buddhist monks or Brahmin priests.

The Wat Bang Phra Buddhist temple, about 30 miles west of Bangkok, is one of the most highly esteemed locations for Sak Yant. Dozens of monks and master artists, who have spend years perfecting the art, can be found there. Many people — including two (2) monks I wound up giving a ride back to the Bangkok bus station — travel from far reaches of Thailand and Cambodia just to get 'inked' by the monks there.

I don't yet have a picture of the new tattoo (located on my upper shoulders, extending up the length of my neck to the base of my skull), but I'll post one as soon as I get the chance.

The experience was kinda trippy in and of itself — a local friend of mine recently got a yant tattoo from Arjan Noo, the preist here in Bangkok that received worldwide fame for giving Angelina Jolie the yant designs adorning her back. So, together with a friend who was here yesterday visiting from the States, I decided to go and get inked by this guy.

The only problem? Now that Ajarn Noo is famous, a blessed tattoo from him costs about US$1000.00 (ONE THOUSAND U.S. DOLLARS) — which translates into three surfboards, for the rest of us. Naturally, we were inclined to say 'fuck it' to that high-fallutin' shit.

Just the same, we still wanted to look at getting inked. So we wandered over to the shop on the Sukhumvit that I got my last design done, where the artist told us that we could also get Sak Yant done at the sacred Wat Bang Phra — where Noo apparently trained — for the equivilent of US$5.00 (FIVE U.S. DOLLARS).

Okay, let's review … admittedly talanted yet incredibly over-hyped 'tattoo artist to the stars' — versus — true Buddhist monks practicing a sacred craft, hand crafted traditional artistic designs, 'blessed' protective mantras on me for all time, no celebrities, no bullshit, … and oh yeah, for only Five Bucks?

That's a pretty tough call, right? Yeah, that's what I said too.

Unfortunately, my friend left last night, so she couldn't get any ink done. So I made solo arrangements for the trip to the temple instead.

Despite having been told, and reading online accounts (the Wikipedia account was particularly accurate) about the Wat, I STILL had trouble at first figuring out how the whole process works (c'mon, it IS bloody Thailand). However, I was lucky enough to run into 2 monks who spoke decent English and helped me along. The pair had travelled 250 kilometers from their temple near Cambodia for the day, just to get tattooed at the Wat.

Thanks to them, I was also lucky enough to be admitted into the group of people waiting for Hiwong Pi Nan, one of the younger masters to come up in recent years, who has developed a rather large following of disciples since his tattoos are finely detailed and absolutely beautiful.

Before entering the temple, you must buy flowers and cigarettes (about US$2.00) as an offering to Buddha. These offerings are given to the monk, and then 'recycled' for the next batch of devotees, with the money used to support the Wat. The tattoos are done in groups of about 15-20 people. When the previous group is complete, the monk blesses the next batch of offerings and the next group of people.

When tattooing, the monk dips a slender 15 inch double-pronged metal rod (think barbeque skewer) into a dark inky liquid (said to contain a combination of coloring agent, palm oil, herbs, and snake venom). He then repeatedly, rhythmically, and quickly punctures the skin. Small dots of ink and blood appear, and with repeated applications, the small dots eventually form an overall design.

For me, the precess was far more painful than the modern machine-needle tattooing (or even the bamboo needling) I've had done in the past. As such, I eventually resorted to rythemic breathing and chanting mantras to focus out the pain. It helped for a bit … until I could hear/feel the metal rod literally 'POPPING' in and out of the skin of my upper neck — at which point, I kinda lost concentration and started giggling (which I think may be a 'no-no' in a Buddhist temple, I'm not sure).

After finishing, the monk say a quick prayer and blows of the tattoo. You then go to the next temple building, where the temple's master himself also blesses the tattoo (and, in my case, he also 'topped-up' the pre-existing "OM MANI PADME HUM" Sanscrit prayer mantra I already have on my upper back).

And that was that.

Honestly, I feel incredible right now. I mean, really freakin' good!!

Usually, I come out after getting a new tat feeling kinda worn out. But for some reason, that's not the case today.

Is it the protective blessing placed on me through the new tattoo? Who knows. I don't particularly believe in any of that religious mumbo-jumbo, but there are more things in Heaven and Earth, dear Horatio, so you never know …

Or it could just be the mutherfuckin' snake venom.

Anyhoo, I'll post picks of the new ink as soon as I get a chance (hopefully before I leave for the Philippines tomorrow).

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