I’ve heard the same stories about this place — and given how crowded it’s getting in Seminyak and up into Canggu, I obviously prefer the 20 year ago version.

Seminyak is lost to the tourist industry … completely, and Canggu is not far behind. Over the past 3 years, I’ve been able to see the growth as it occurs, at an amazing rate — it’s like watching a tumor grow at 100x speed.

There are several ‘local’ places I surf on both coasts where, even 3 years ago, there was NOTHING there. Now, there are Euro surf camps, nuevo-riche beach villas, and 20 Euro trashers kooking up the surf.

No offense, but it’s all a bit too much for me. I do like Bali — very much so. But the ever-increasing frenetic pace is not something that appeals to me — especially in an island setting. I doubt I’ll ever return, at least not for any extended amount of time.

20 years ago Kuta wasn’t all that much different. The chaos was concentrated to Jl. Legian and there were a lot more family run places to stay with gardens versus single structure hotels. Although in the season, the Sari Club to Bounty strip was full on Cancun Spring Break style. I dare say even more packed than it is now. After the bombings a lot of nightlife moved into the alleys off and along poppies and away from Jl Legian. Although its making its way back for lack of anywhere else.

The biggest change is the expansion of all that into the surrounding towns. Seminyak was palm trees and dirt roads, period. I remember La’lucioula being in the jungle. It’s a big island (and country) and what keeps me coming back is everytime I visit I find someplace I have not discovered yet – and is perfect to spend some quality time catching waves and drinking tea.

And 20 years ago people were already saying “20 years ago this place must have been….”, I promise.