A Bowl of Stupid

So I took a road trip for few days up north to Ubud, which is about 2 hours north of the Kuta/Denpasar area of Bali. Ubud has an increasingly renowned arts scene and is still very touristy, but it's off-season so it wasn't all that crowded (especially in comparison to the Kuta/Legion/Seminyak area where I live down south).

I really enjoyed the place. Despite the fact that it IS a well-known tourist destination, Ubud still has a great 'vibe.' Ubud also has the 'Monkey Forest', a small nature reserve that houses a temple and over 200 long-tailed macaque monkeys.

It's obviously a very artsy place. But it also has a genuine spiritual feel — the people seem to be much more about living their Hindu faith than here in the south, where it feels like the faith has devolved into a Westernised characterture of itself.

It's a bit slower. The people seem a bit more genuine. The smiles more forthcoming. The people — locals and expats alike — seem less influenced by the whole tourist trade than down here. They're all just a bit … nicer! (a friend of mine says most of the expats living down south area look like someone just pissed on their face — unfortunately, he's right).

Additionally, I took the cycle for a ride 2-3 hours further north and it all just felt a bit like India SHOULD have felt (if that makes any sense). Also, I finally got the first good back massage ever outside of Thailand.

So, all in all, it was very nice.

I just went for a few days to scope it out, but I'll be heading back up again in the next week or so. I plan to be up there often over the next couple months (which are the rainy season here in Bali, and the surf isn't all that great). Instead, I'll do what I did last year this time, when I went to Sri Lanka and India — focus on my yoga practice (there are several really good yoga places in Ubud) while still going out for a surf every once in a while.

I've been told there are numerous OTHER places in the north of the island that are just as,if not more, laid back as the Ubud area. I'm looking forward to visiting them in the coming months. And I'm just really glad I decided to move to Bali — especially considering I'd effectively be a hostage right now had I stayed in Bangkok.

P.S. I've started taking pictures again and should have some from this Ubud trip up online in the next few days.

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I know the title of this post is probably one that will be, or has already been, used many times this week, but really … WHAT THE FUCK?

After months of (in my opinion) useless demonstrations, things have been taken to a whole other level of insanity. Specifically, the anti-government group People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) has been leading protests against the government since May, accusing the government of being a front for ousted former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, and protesters surrounded the parliament building on Monday, forcing lawmakers to postpone their session.

Now, according to the latest from CNN:

Blasts at two Bangkok airports wounded four people early Wednesday, triggering the closure of the main international airport, authorities said.

The explosions come a day after thousands of anti-government protesters stormed the airports to protest the return of Thai Prime Minister Somchai Wongsawat from the APEC summit in Peru.

One blast occurred at Suvarnabhumi Airport at 5 a.m. (2200 Tuesday GMT), an airport official said. One person was wounded in that attack.

Continued protests caused authorities to cancel all incoming and outgoing flights there.

I know I kid a lot, but this is really fucked up — especially considering it's taking place in a Bhuddist country (and somewhere I called home as recently as last week).

For the first time in a while, I'm glad to be anywhere BUT Bangkok right now. All I can do now is hope for quick and non-violent outcome, and of course that all my friends in Thailand emege from this unscathed … soon!

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In keeping with my renewed interest in presenting a more 'travel oriented' blog, while simultaniously retaining my newfound desire to be as lazy as possible, I've reached a compromise — I'm going to start posting video clips.

I figure it's the best way for my friends and family to see some of the truer elements of the places where I'm traveling and living, and aso a hell of a lot easier than sitting down and writing out something for the blog (which, as we all know, would significantly eat into my much needed 'nap time').

I'll probably start in the next couple days, so stay tuned.

P.S.: In addition, I've also added few new links:

The first is to a Mina I Bangkok, a blog recently started by a Swedish friend of mine writing, coincidentally, about being a Swede living and working for a non-profit here in Bangkok.

The second is Where Was I?, another new(ish) blog written by former CNN'er Jacki Schechner (between her and Chez, I'm trying to cover most of the former CNN'ers from Miami — no, Rick Sanchez is NOT next).

And the third is to Yoga Elements, my yoga studio here in Bangers — possibly the best studio I've been to in my life. If you're ever in Bangkok and need a good yoga studio, check them out.

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When I first started writing this blog a couple years back, it was ostensibly for three reasons: (1) to practice my narrative writing skills, (2) to provide a public outlet, however small, for all my outrage against the American political and social landscape, and — what I considered to be — the unfortunate state of my life in general; and (3) to make fun of Britney Spears.

Now, considering the fact that I am in the midst of a 3 year 'surf sufari", Americans wholeheartedly voted against the Republican, neo-conservative agenda that has been poisoning the world for the past 8 years, and that Britney Spears will apparently be successful in conducting her comeback number 23, that leaves me with just 'working on my writing skills' as the main emphesis for this blog.

And anyone who has been reading this dribble (like the above, for example) can tell how THAT'S going … yah, not so well. Ever since I left the States in an effort to find the perfect wave, my writing has become pretty stale, and fairly one-dimentional.

In fact, it's much worse that that. It's not just my writing that has become one-dimentional, it's my entire being. And while I enjoy the idea of simplifying my life to the extent where I can focus my energies into only 1-2 things that are really important to me, it's now reached a level where I can't even speak to people — good friends of mine — unless the conversation is about surfing or yoga for surfing (okay, so maybe 1 and 1/2 dimentional).

It has taken the election to sort of rattle me out of this self-induced slumber — I never thought I'd again be interested in politics, or anything else for that matter. But I guess recognizing you have a problem is the first step in correcting it — isn't that what they say at all the 12 step programs?

Yeah, I'll think about it. In the meantime, I'm late for my yoga class, so if you'll excuse me …

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The Beverly Hillbillies - The Next Generation

Now I know what my Halloween Costume is gonna be. I'm just wondering if anyone OUTSIDE Texas and Missouri would find it more entertaining than disturbing.

P.S. I'm actually celebrating Halloween the 'Old Fashioned Way' — I'm back in Railay, enjoying some great tropical weather, some good climbing, and a cocktail on the beach. God, I love this place.

P.P.S. Hey Dee, everyone here is STILL asking about you. What the fuck, did you buy all the people here new cars or something?

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I know the tone of my blog of late has been less than optimistic, to say the least.

Rather, when I've posted at all, those posts have reflected the high anxiety of the world financial markets, the vitriolic advancing of the U.S. Presidential election, and my own general frustration about my continuing inability to find my place in the world.

As my friend here has told me, tho — get the fuck over it. There's nothing much you can do about those things. But I am living in tropical paradise (of sorts) with immediate access to some of the best surfing in the world. I've enough money left to live like like royalty here for the next year, at least — so suck it the fuck up.

There is little reason for my high anxiety right now, expecially considering my current locale and my daily routine of surfing and eating cheap Indonesia food.

Ironically, I feel that much of this is tied to the fact that, for the first time in several years, I have cable television and internet at my home — incuding access to international news networks. I have, until now, been fairly segregated from the nightmares being broadcast 24 hours a day on these chanels.

I can't help but feel that my immediate access to these outlets hs at least SOMETHING to do with my growing unease and anxiety. I really think I ned to lose the television again, and by implication, admit that my parents were right: "Television rots your mind" — especially during a U.S. Presidential race.

And that doesn't even include all the political ads we don't have to put up with here overseas. I can only imagine how miserable the people living back in the States must feel — being constantly innumdated with bad financial news and bitter campaign politics.

Yep, I've got it pretty fucking good over here.

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So, needless to say, I've run into several snags during the past week in the midst of my move to Bali.

• I left my Bankcard in an ATM and it was gone when I checked back 2 minutes later.
• I got stopped by the cops for allegedly speeding — while other Balanese were passing me on both sides.
• I had to pay a taxi driver 5 times what we orginally agreed or he threatened to drop me in middle of nowhere late at night coming from airport.

Of course, these have been nothing more than mere inconveniences, but they still have made this move particularly irksome.

First, although I've been in Indonesia — on and off — for most of the past year, I must remember that this area of Indo (and Bali, in particular) is NOT the 'First World' … or even Thailand or Rote.

I lived in Bangkok and Singapore for the better part of 2 years and I NEVER got harrassed by the Police. Never!

Indeed, the Police in Thailand and Singapore were more of a help than a hinderance (as they should be). But I have been hassled here in Bali twice so far in the past 10 days, essentially for being a foreigner from whom they can extort money.

The same goes for the locals here. I have been 'worked' and otherwise taken advantage of by a number of them in the past 10 days simply because I needed help and they knew I had no other options. And this is supposedly a Hindu island that believes heavily in 'karma'. If so, that explains why many of them are still stuck in a shitty life.

However, during my entire time in Bangkok (which is heavily Buddhist), I was NEVER 'worked' to the extent I have been here lately — by taxi drivers, merchants, cops, my landlord … everyone! Yes, some say that 'bargaining' is part of their culture here. Possibly, but the utter greed and disrespect and anger I've encountered lately I've NEVER witnessed in other areas of Indonesia I've visited (except maybe in southern Sumatra). Like my friend Sean here said, the peple here look like someone just pissed on their face.

I know that I have to deal with the change of environment … which will come in time. But for now, I miss Bangkok (and Rote, Indonesia) terribly. I miss the smiling faces and the sincere desire to help, with or without the promise of money. I miss the gentleness and desire to avoid conflict (I think they actively SEEK conflict here).

Perhaps my initial assessment of Bali was right … it's a shithole. Perhaps I'm just overreacting to a few bad eggs and I need to give it some more time — which I will. I also plan on exploring the rest of this island — which I've heard is MUCH different than this area.

But for now, I just feel like ranting. So I will.

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So it's been a hectic several days since I last posted anything. I've essentially prepared myself for again moving (such as it is) from one Asian country to another. This time, it's back to Indonesia — possibly fo a couple years.

Given how much I despised Bali when I first visited (the Kuta area especially), I find it fairly ironic to find myself now looking for a home just a few kilometers from that same area. But, honestly, it just makes sense. I've been spending most of my time in Indonesia anyway, I've been particularly keen on practicing my Bahasa Indonesian, and with the U.S. Dollar trading so poorly in the rest of Southeast Asia (but not here), it just seems the right thing to do (although admittedly I may need to maintain a presence in Bangkok for a couple more months).

That's not to say that the whole 'moving' thing has not been a little bit stressful, despite the fact that most of my worldly belongings can fit onto a small hand trolley. Moving is always stressful, no matter what the circumstances — you're relocating your entire existance. However, I will say that the move has been eased greatly through the generosity and assistance of my friend Sean here on Bali, without which I would still be a bit lost. Thanks mate!

Indeed, I've a whole bunch more to write about the moving experience itself, as well as the Seminyak area on Bali to where I'm moving. However, continuing on that 'thankful' theme, Sean's help got me thinking about — and prompting me to thank everyone else who helped me on this current sojern (Oscar, Mike[s], Dario, Jonny, Rohit, Mina, Jill, Desho …. thank you guys so much, please don't ever think your generosity and kindness were wasted on me).

That's probably the worst part about moving again. Although I may one day wind up back in Bangkok or Miami or wherever, I miss my friends. And while, as I said, my friends here in Bali — both new and old — have already lent their hands in making this place seem like a home for me, no one set of friends has ever been able to replace another, and vice versa.

So in the end, I miss them all. But fuck it, I'm here now. I'm happy as hell to be here. And quite honestly, I'm not sure I'd have it any other way.

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(Kuang Si Waterfall — about 26 K south of Luang Prabang, Laos)

Yesterday morning I woke up nursing a massive (MASSSSS-IVE) hangover acquired after drinking entirely too much Beerlao and lao-lao the day/night before. Ahh, good times.

So I figured the best way to deal with said hangover would be to take a 28 kilometer bemo ride to the famous Kouang Si waterfalls. I had heard they were awesome … and honestly, I was not disappointed. The waterfalls — actually a series of waterfalls topped off by a 120 meter(ish) high grand waterfall — was absolutely magnificent. And honestly, any pictures you see do not do it justice.

Plus, the water was a brisk 20-22 degrees (C) or so, which helped to cool the red-hot pokers that were surreptitiously placed behind my eyeballs whilst I slept the night before.

And while the waterfalls themselves were indeed spectacular (unlike the jarring, jostling, sphincter-clenching bus ride up to here Luang Prabang from Vang Vieng), I think I've reached a turning point on this particular trip. It's happened to me before when I travel without the specific intent to go surfing — I get sick and tired of the type of people I run into (and hang out with) in the whole Southeast Asian tourist/backpacker scene.

Simply stated — it's all been done before.

There reaches a stage when there is nothing more the majority of these people can say, do, or be that is of any interest to me. The majority of these people think they are the most outgoing, adventurous, and brave people in the world — simply because they have been staying in shithole guest-houses and hostels for a few months.

C'mon, get the fuck over yourselves, people!!

Yes, there is something to be said about doing what you've done and being to all the 'backpacker' haunts you've been to, but not THAT much.

So you've swung from a rope into a river … ooohh, here's a cookie!

So you've gotten pissed drunk or stoned incontinent in the middle of the jungle somewhere … umm, okay.

Got over it. It's NOT a big deal!!

Go surf triple overhead at G-land, go climb the Himalayas, go live in some cave or shithole village for a few months — THEN maybe I'll have some respect for your boring-ass stories. But as it now stands, your shit stinks just like the rest of us.

This is what happens when my gills dry out. This whole backpacker scene can hold my interest for only so long, and I just want to go someplace to surf with people whose company, and stories, I actually enjoy.

I just wanna go back to where things make sense to me. I wanna go surfing again.

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Bowling in Luang Prabang: Good.

Beer Lao: Good.

Lao-Lao (homemade) whiskey: Questionable.

Resulting Hangover: Bad.

Try to remember this the next time one of your buddies tells you to do something like that.

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Yes, me being who I am, I was bound to get injured sooner or later. The good news is that it's a minor injury — more aggravating than anything else. I'm still here in Vang Vieng, and I was planning on going tubing down the river today, as per suggestion of my buddy 'Dee'. However, yesterday I went rock climbing and in returning down from the set climbing route, I slipped in some mud, my flip-flop came off, and I sliced open the bottom of my foot fairly deep on a rock.

Sigh.

Like I said, not a really big deal, except that there's no way in HELL I'm going tubing down a muddy ol' river today with an open wound like that. Plus, I don't have any shoes, so it's a real pain in the ass keeping it clean for the next couple days (at least) — especially now, during rainy season.

What a drag. I may go up to Luang Prabang a bit sooner than I thought since there's not much else to do here besides eat and get drunk, while nursing a sliced foot. Oh well, it could be worse … I could be working on Wall Street. HA!

P.S. Dee, funny thing - the 2 brothers that run the climbing place I went too have a brother that I (and almost certainly you) know that works for Hot Rocks down in Railay. Fucking small world, huh?

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I'm now up in Vang Vieng, Laos. It's a small(ish) little village on the banks of the Mekong River, which for some reason has devolved into a haven for wayward backpackers.

The main street is littered with guest houses, bars, restaurants, internet cafes and tour agencies. Almost all the restaurants have large televisions playing American sitcoms (most of them 'Friends' — no, I'm NOT kidding) on a rotational basis.

And despite the hell (and gag reflex) this vision invokes, it's actually not all that bad of a scene. This is saying something, considering the praise is coming from yours truly. I think it's because the whole Laos lackadaisical attitude doesn't push the whole issue on you as much as it does down in similar spots in Thailand and elsewhere in S.E. Asia.

Regardless, I'm still only staying a few days to do some climbing, some rafting, and some drinking (did I mention Laotion beer, coffee, and food just fucking ROCK!?!). before heading up to Luang Prabang for another few days before rafting back down to Vientiane.

P.S. Dee, sorry I forgot to respond to your continued suggestion that I hit Vietnam. I'm not doing it this round — for 2 reasons: 1. I head back to the Philippines to go surfing in only a couple weeks; and 2. they changed the visa requirements for Vietnam (it now takes 5-7 days and about US$65.00 for 30 day tourist visa — so fuck all that right now). Thanks anyway, mate.

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Hey guys, I'm currently in Vientiene, but pressed for time as I'm catching a bus to Vang Vieng in about 20 minutes. As per the claims of my buddies Dee and Desh (no, I'm not kidding about the names), there's not much to do in Vientiene besides eat and drink … a lot.

But I will say this:

Yes, Beer Laos is the BEST fucking lager beer I've had in S.E. Asia (perhaps ever).

Yes, Laotion (sp?) food is perhaps the BEST in S.E. Asia (whereas the Philippines has taken the WORST food and drink combinations from all the cultures it was conquered by, Laos has taken all the BEST … think baguettes with pate and spicy guava salad - damn good!)

Yes, there's not much going on here, and the pace is beyond laid back. It's a lot like the Indo islands I frequent … but with no surf to pass the time. Still, it's nice.

Okay, more later, but gotta go.

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Aloha you nutjubs, listen up: I'm taking the suggestions of several of my friends and heading up to Laos tommorow for a week or so. My first stop is Vientiane, where I'll probably spend 1-2 days. Then my plan is to take a bemo to vang Vieng, where I'll probably stay another 1-2 days. From there, I'll be heading up to Luang Prabang, and then from there, I'll probably take a slow boat down Mekhong river back to Vientiane.

These plans are tentative, but it's a start. If I get sidetracked, I'll let y'all know. But for now, that's the plan.

If anyone has any other suggestions (ahem … Dee), please lemme know. I'll try to post some pics and stuff from the road wherever there's internet and such. Thanks kids, I'm outta here.

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