A Bowl of Stupid

   
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Okay, I'll admit it — I'm a bit of a comic book junkie. Always have been, probably always will be.

For that reason alone, I'd been looking forward to the new Iron Man movie for a while now. However, with all the traveling I've been doing, I kinda forgot about the whole thing until I got back to Bangkok last week.

Luckily for me (and for Marvel), posters of Robert Downey Jr. in that goddamn iron suit are pasted up all around Bangkok — so it took me all of .025 seconds to remember about the film. Also luckily for me, the film was formally released in Bangkok theaters on 30 April (about 3 days ago), and unofficially released several weeks prior by the guy selling bootleg DVD's down on Sukhumvit Road.

So I've had the opportunity to see the movie twice so far.

And I gotta tell ya' … it's not bad. In fact, it's a pretty freakin' good.

Admittedly, it takes neither a genius nor a sneak-peak at the script to figure out the plot, before ever stepping foot into a theater (or the Sukhumvit) — successful, morally destitute, yet fundamentally good protagonist suffers harm at hands of TRULY evil persons … realizes the error of his ways … find means to rectify past wrongs and help save the world (in this case, such 'means' being a post-modern bullet-proof flying suit) … hilarity ensues … blah, blah, blah.

And yes, Iron Man can be enjoyed as just another action/adventure superhero movie — with all the requisite blockbuster CGI special effects. But thanks to the strength of primary casting (Downey, Jeff Bridges, Terrance Howard), the movie also works on a more human-scale — as a drama about a reckless man who, in discovering his conscious, decides that being a playboy weapons manufacturer may not be a 'morally sound' way to conduct his life.

On paper, Iron Man and his alter-ego Tony Stark look rather generic, but in the hands of Downey and director, Jon Favreau (remember Swingers?), the stock superhero character is redefined as a screwball romantic that hides a deeper, contemplative side — sort of like a Nick Charles (The Thin Man) for the 21st century.

Admittedly, Downey was an unlikely choice to play a superhero, but his own dark past, infectious self-deprecating humor, intuitive sense of timing, and astounding acting skills infuse the main character with a depth not otherwise seen in films based on comic books.

In fact, the only other actor with the skills to effectively pull that off was Christian Slater in the later-day Batman movies. However, unlike those (and several other deliriously boring superhero flicks), Favreau and Downey remember the underlying issue about comic book movies — generally speaking, they're not meant to be ponderous and steeped in existential angst.

They're supposed to be fun!

In the case of Iron Man, the filmmakers understood the priority had to be fun, albeit tempered with some real world content and criticism; which makes for an entertaining, fun, and yet still ultimately realistic story.

The only, and weakest, link in Iron Man was the casting of Gweneth Paltrow as Downey's assistant/love interest. I won't argue the point — she may have been a great actress at one time, but in this role she faltered … HUGELY. In fact, every time she appeared on film, I guarantee you that the minds behind Iron Man were squirming in the seats at the ridiculousness of her shallow acting — hoping, as I did, that Downey's skills were sufficient to carry the load.

Lucky for them they are. Truly, if ever there was a poster boy for everything that can be accomplished despite the ravages of drug addiction, Robert Downey Jr. is the guy. Go check out the movie, and check out how a modern-day superhero is SUPPOSED to look.

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Yes, even perfection can get tiresome when not taken in moderation.

I honestly don't know how those professional surfers (and many amateurs) can stay in the water surfing for 6, 7 or even 8 hours a day for weeks on end. Luckily, I had a some great quality time here in the water with absolutely fantastic conditions and a low body count in the water (pictures to come).

But after a couple of weeks going out for several hours a day, my shoulders were constantly aching from all the paddling, my chest was (and still is) bruised from laying on the board so much, and I was just generally waterlogged.

So I hitched a ride with Andy (the owner of the Karang Nyimbor Hotel) to Bandar Lampung for some shopping, to get money from a working ATM machine (which I did), and to simply take a break from paradise for a couple days.

The morning we left, I went out for a quick paddle, hoping to get a few good waves in the swell that came in overnight. It was great — I paddled out easily, missing the set waves, got to the lineup just in time for a set, caught a screamer for a few hundred meters, paddled back around and did the same thing twice more.

Total time in the water: about 10 minutes. It was short, but it was the most satisfying session I had in a week — much how I like my sex (for any hotties reading, I'm just kidding; for everyone else, yah, not so much).

Then we headed into town - a 4-5 hour drive one way, up and down and around the mountains of southern Sumatra. It's a beautiful place, hardly touched but for the occational coffee plantations, rice patties, or small mountain village.

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I'm still here surfing in Krui, Sumatra. There have been a couple nice swells that pushed through, providing for some long and tiring sessions over the past week. Nothing much to report after that, other than that I continue to have a GREAT time - I continue to work on my surfing skills (never all that great to begin with, but getting better with each passing day, month, and year), and I got a pretty fucking sweet stand-up barrel this morning in the last of the latest swell.

It's days, weeks, and months like this that make me wonder how the hell ANYONE can sit behind a desk for 8-10 hours a day and still retain any semblance of his or her humanity.

Come out and play, you guys — you will NOT regret it.

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(A picture taken of the break last year in front of the Karang Nyimbor Hotel — where I'm staying in Southern Sumatra)

I'm torn between my desire to detail for those interested in visiting the Krui area of Sumatra (where I currently am), and my desire to just talk about my own shit (like usual). So I'll compromise and do a little bit of both.

There are several breaks in the Krui area — comprised of an exposed beach and reef that has good, reliable surf all throughout the dry season of March through October. One of the best features of the area is that it's one of the only places in Indonesia that has some decent right-handed breaks (Indonesia is known as 'land of the lefts').

As noted previously, I am staying about an hour south of Krui town, in a small fishing village called Ujung Bocur. The entire area is an absolutely idyllic tropical setting.

When it's working properly, the wave here (a.k.a. Sumatra's longest left) is a quality long point reef. It's a long, walled up wave with three connecting sections that breaks on all tides and provides some amazing rides of up to 1/2 a kilometer long.

Unfortunately, I've had only a few truly decent days of surf in the past week — it was initially a bit inconsistent due to a cyclone that was sitting off the northwestern coast of Australia (Cyclone Pancho — and no, I'm not kidding about the name).

As noted previously, there are several other minor issues with the area — all of which have been EASILY outweighed by only one (1) awesome day in the surf. The biggest issue is that, although there are some amazing surf spots all up and down the coast, most are very far apart, requiring a lot of time on the road, and you need to get to them before the afternoon wind gets up.

The second biggest problem is also probably one of the best features of the area — it's isolation and difficulty to reach. I did it the 'expensive' way — traveling direct from Singapore to Jakarta (in West Java), then sleeping in the Jakarta Airport Hotel as part of the mandatory overnight stay (US$100 — an absolute FORTUNE in Indo Rupiah), then the morning flight from Jakarta to Bandar Lampung (in southern Sumatra), and then a privately hired 'bemo' (taxi) to drive the final 5-6 hours around the volcano's to Krui.

• The total travel time to Krui from Singapore (including layovers, etc.), which is only about 250 miles away, is 2 days.
• The nearest Bank/ATM machine — 2-2.5 hours away by taxi/motorbike (3-4 hours if by public bus).
• English is hardly spoken or understood ANYWHERE in the area (except by the few ex-pat surfers living/running surf camps in the area).

Again, these inconveniences are becoming easily overlooked after only one day of getting treated like royalty by the guys over at Karang Nyimbor Hotel. The place is probably somewhat similar to how Bali was a few decades ago — no huge crowds of panting, overage Aussies, no huge shopping markets, no nothing, really.

And now the wind is dropping — the surf is picking up — the weather is gorgeous. Fucking 'ell, man. It's absolutely awesome. THIS is the shit I came out here for!! I'm going surfing for a bit, I'll see y'all in a few days (or so…).

P.S. AmTrust Direct Bank STILL sucks ass!! Fuck, I can't even get onto the AmTrust website anymore. Could someone back in the States try to get on and see if it's just cuz they're blocking overseas customers (i.e., ME) or if the entire Bank is gone. Thanks all!

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I finally made it!! After weeks of abusive viral infections and neo-hippie hombres, I'm finally out of India!

And probably not a moment too soon. I swear, I thought that place was trying to kill me — dengue fever, food poisoning, the constant smoke from all the burning garbage (and people). I really do feel about 1000% better now that I'm back in Sri Lanka.

Not that THAT process itself wasn't a bit of a ball-buster. First, I had to spend about 4-5 hours on a train from Cochin to Thiruvananthapuram (affectionately called 'Trivandrum'), seemingly stopping at every backwater hole-in-the-wall en route. I tried to eat and drink as little as possible during that time, which made me kinda weak, too. That may seem a bit much, but my stomach was still 'bothering me' [ahem], and if you see the hole in the bottom of the train they euphemistically call a 'toilet', you'll understand my aversion.

I couldn't sleep in a hotel in town, because thanks to the local Kerala Communist leadership, the next day — the actual day of my flight — the locals were staging a 'fuel strike' protesting the fuel cost hike, so no taxis, tuk-tuks, or anything motorized would be able to take me to the airport. When I asked someone about catching a random taxi working outside the strike, I was told I didn't want to do that just in case it got stopped by an angry mob. Nice.

So instead, I went to the airport the early morning beforehand and I was able to get a nice 1-2 hour nap in the front lobby of the Trivandrum airport. Then, when it was finally time to check it, I had to wait another 8 hours in the airport while my flight was delayed. Shit, at that point, I honestly felt like the country was trying to keep me there - just to finish off the job.

The good news is that we eventually made it onto the 45 minute flight to Colombo, Sri Lanka. The bad news is that we arrived at 1:30 a.m. I somehow finagled my way into getting a free ride from the airport to Colombo (about 1 hour away), at which time I slept on the front steps of the Colombo train station for another couple hours until the station opened at 5:30 a.m.

Yes, I know this is the same train station that was bombed by Tamil Tiger separatists — killing dozens — just weeks ago. Yes, I know it probably wasn't the smartest of ideas sleeping on the front steps of a public train station in downtown Colombo. But fuck it, I made it out of India alive — at that point, I felt absolutely invincible. Exhausted, but invincible.

I caught the 6:30 a.m. train down to Mirissa, where I am again — at Dinu's Resort. I'm still a bit too 'blech' to eat anything, but it's nice to be back in a place where the only things actively trying to kill you are the terrorists.

I got a couple surfs in yesterday before crashing for about 13 hours. I hope to have at least one more before I have to begin the 5 hour trek back up to the Colombo/Negombo airport for my 5:00 a.m. flight to Bangkok tomorrow morning.

I'm already really happy to be back in Sri Lanka. But I REALLY can't wait to get back to Thailand. Sawadee kap, bitches!

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One of the things I still find most disconcerting about the Philippines, despite all the fun I've had here of late, is how many of the odd things they've retained from their 300 years under colonial rule by the Spaniards.

The counting in Spanish is cool. The language peppered with Spanish phrases I can somewhat understand from my years in Miami (a.k.a. 'Northern South American') is great But why the fuck did they have to keep Santa Ria (or at least some form of it).

There is such a strong 'religious witchcraft' culture in this country — and on Siargao Island, in particular — that it's not even funny. And at times, it's just downright creepy.

Regardless, I'm starting to think there may be something to it. No, I've not seen any shape-shifters here (as many claim to be and/or have seen). Nor have I seen any ghosts, ghouls, or zombies (again, as many claim exist here).

However, it's more than just a bit coincidental that I started enjoying this place right after I shaved my head.

Yes, in case I haven't mentioned that before, due to the heat, the bugs, the unkempt hair, and my general distrust of anyone here holding scissors close to my hear, I shaved my head.

It feels great. I did get a bit of a sunburn those first couple days. But all in all, I'm glad I did it (although I am also glad to see the hair coming back in … how long that keeps up is a question to be answered by genetics tho, right Mikey?).

And yes Manny, I do have pictures (well, some at least, since I've lost my camera's USB cord). I'll try to upload the rest of the pics from the trip during my 2 day stay back in Singapore.

And I'm starting to think there may be at least a few good things about this whole witchcraft thing, tho. Look, I also learned how to levitate a surfboard over my head!

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Quickly, I'm still in the Philippines - I leave next week back to Singapore before quickly moving on to Sri Lanka in the first week of January.

There have been some interesting goings on in these neck of the woods here in Siargao Island. The first of which was that I basically got 'jacked' by the guy I hired a motorbike from. I paid him up front for an entire month, yet he still just came (carrying a machete) and took it back after only 2 weeks without refunding ANY money because … well, because he's a prick.

So I've basically been immobile for the past 10 days. Pisser … life in a cowboy town. C'iest la vie.

To balance it out, I've had the good fortune to meet some of the other locals (and foreigners) living on the island who have taken it upon themselves to right the wrongs that initially befell me here. I have been really treated like royalty for the past 10 days since that jackass fellow stole back his bike.

I owe them a debt of gratitude for restoring my faith in the human spirit after everything else I experienced here beforehand. Thank you.

On another note, the surf has also picked up a bit (it's not 'epic', but it's still good enuf to go have some really good fun with some of the local pros and other locals on a fairly regular basis).

The sweet is not as sweet without the sour. Ying and yang, my friends … ying and yang.

Take care. Happy holidays. Peace out for another week or so until I get back to Sing.

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It's been a while since I've posted any music up here … and even longer since anyone other than my girl and the occasional malcontent has read and/or commented this blog.

But for my own well being and state of mind, as well as to remind some of us that I do indeed listen to Ozzie music more than it would appear, I'm posting this song from Australian 'Granola' Band, The John Butler Trio.

Yeah, I know … It's kinda crunchy. It's kinda poppy. It's kinda 'Stuart Smally.'

But it's a really fun, catchy tune. And he's playing a banjo too, so there's that.

The John Butler Trio - Better Than

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With a promise to write later this week about my recent adventures in the wily wilds of Northern Thailand and Suburban Massachusetts, I am happy to report I've got an agenda (or what reasonably passes for an agenda for me) as for the next couple months.

I am, for now, leaving the mains of Southeast Asia in favor of traveling to the larger areas that, quite honestly, initially prompted me to leave the States in the first place:

The outer Asian Islands, Oceania and eventually … Polynesia.

And I'm giving up the backpack once again for my surfboards. I'm gonna try to get back into the water, folks (congrats on the arrival of the new little monkey, by the way).

I just booked a flight to the Philippines (I leave for Manila this coming Monday), which is a relatively cheap flight from here, and also apparently has some decent surf spots. I still need to determine where they are … and also where I can go that I won't get shot.

At this point, I've still got a few days to figure that out … or buy some Kevlar, whichever comes first.

I'm not sure just how long I'm going to stay in the Philippines, but from there, I'm heading (tentatively, of course) to the Republic of Palau, in the westernmost Micronesian isles (and where they filmed the first Survivor T.V. show), before heading (again, tentatively) to Guam, where there are also supposed to be some really nice surf spots.

This whole area is supposed to house some absolutely spectacular surfing, and in conditions which one typically associates with the Pacific Islands — succulent green forests, iridescent blue waters, and a truly, truly relaxed atmosphere.

(Photo by Tim McKenna)

Don't get me wrong, I could be completely wrong about this. I could walk into some of these places and experience another Kuta, Bali. Regardless, this time, I will try to not let my preconceived notions get in the way of my enjoyment of the areas and experiences.

As an aside, it's funny that, when I was a kid, I never saw myself going out to these places that were so integral to America's victory in World War II (and which were also the canvas upon which the genius of McHales' Navy was oh so vividly painted).

I must admit, I'm excited about not just visiting the area, but I'm also looking forward to seeing how the American prescience of the last 60 years has shaped itself, the people, and the cultures in this part of the world.

At this point, I really have no idea. And not to sound like an even more ungrateful son of a bitch than I already do after having visited some truly nice places in recent months, but I'm really excited about this. For the first time since I left for Boston, I've actually got my nethers into a froth about traveling somewhere new (albeit obviously for a whole new set of reasons).

Don't get me wrong, I love being here in Asia, and the people, the places, and the cultures I've seen since coming here have been both breathtaking and eye-opening. However, I'm also ready to see something a little different (I hope). Similarly, I still miss KB terribly, too — and wish she were coming with me — but regardless, I'm not gonna let that to diminish my excitement too much in heading out towards these places I've dreamed of going for so long.

I believe in the future. And also, at least I'm gonna be a few hours closer to the frozen tundra of Boston. That's gotta count for something too, right?

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My side trip back to the States — by way of Boston, Philadelphia and Phoenix — is coming to an abrupt, although not unanticipated, halt. I fly back to Bangkok, Thailand first thing tomorrow morning. I will be meeting up with friends there and then down in Krabi, Thailand, in another week.

After that, I still don't know WHAT the fuck I'm gonna do.

• I may head back to Singapore for a few weeks to catch up with my flat mate (if he can't meet me up in Thailand).
• I may continue up through Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam for a month before returning to Singapore and further destinations.
• I may also head to Papua New Guinea for their surf season - which extends into 'winter' in the Northern Hemisphere.

I just don't know right now.

However, I will be keeping y'all apprised — and I'll continue with the pictures, too. I shit you not, it'll be like you're right there with me (but not really).

Okay, one last thing. Although I promised myself that I wouldn't write too much about the main issue of why I came back to the States much earlier than originally anticipated, I will say this much to all of my friends and family and curious onlookers who have asked about my trip to Boston, and why I made it in the first place:

It is a bittersweet departure. In the short time I've spent here, I've found someone that "gets" me, and whom "get" more than anyone else I've met before. In fact, things have gone better than I could have ever expected with KB.

She will be sorely missed, but I'm in the middle of something right now … and I still have to go. For now.

This is not over. Not by a long shot.

Canned Heat - On the Road Again

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Based upon a variety of factors, my old laptop — a Dell Inspirion — is quite utterly, a disaster.

It's about 4 years old (the same age as my emotional state), it was abused as my secondary "work" computer during the last 3 years I practiced law (uggh, the mere thought of doing legal work at this point just gives me the freaking "willies"), it has been with me across several continents now, and it has been subjected to conditions that one could euphemistically describe as "harsh."

In short, it has seen better days.

Additionally, I have learned the hard way that it's not the best "traveling" computer either. It's heavy as all get-out (in the range of 8-9 pounds with battery), the screen is broken and won't even stand up without the use of books or other items propping it up (much like myself, come to think of it), the outer casing is cracked in various locations allowing me to see more of it's computer guts, and sometimes it simply refuses to cooperate at all.

Action needed to be taken. And I'm back in Singapore, which is the alleged "cheapo electronics" capital of the world. So, when in Rome … uhh, I guess you buy something, right? Riiight.

Oh, I bought something. I realllllly bought something. In fact, I am the proud new owner of this miracle of modern technology — the Sony Vaio TZ.

Holy shit, this thing is the fuckin' mac-daddy, mutha fuckas!!

The thing only weighs 1.2 pounds. It's got an 11.1 inch screen. It's got over 12 hours of battery life. It's got a fingerprint reader so I don't have to deal with any more goddamn passwords. And it's got a shock protection G-Sensor Hard Drive - which is better for traveling (I would have to do a system restore on my old one every time it would take a big bump on an Indo public bus).

Yeah, you women can have yer shoes, and yer handbags, and yer makeup, … or yer whatever — I've got my VAIO; I said I got my VAIO to keep me warm.

Well now, if y'all will excuse me, I'm gonna hole up in my room and whisper sweet nothings into its built-in microphone allllll night. Just you and me, love … just you and me.

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