Sep 272009

I usually don’t post movie trailers here at all, let alone ones featuring story lines mimicking my own personal tale so closely. However, ‘The Drifter’ is different.

Primarily because I’m a big fan of the film’s star, Rob Machado (one of the preeminent ’soul surfers’ of my generation, and whom I’ve actually met several times a decade ago while I was living in San Diego, and again later here in Indonesia), and its director, Taylor Steele (one of the more prominent, and talented, directors of the modern surf film).

Again, the apparent crux of the film echoes my own journey so closely that it’s eerie (except for the fact that I’m not a professional surfer, not world famous, not sponsored by Hurley, and in no way, shape, or form nearly as talented as is Machado).

‘The Drifter’ has been shown around Bali for the past couple months in the pro and semi-pro surfing circles, and it is being released in earnest later this Fall, 2009. Steele is outstanding in his ability to weave into a typical surf movie the other, and the majority, of what actually takes place on a surf trip — 95% of which takes place OUTSIDE the water.

It’s a fantastic film. It’s a beautiful representation of the Indonesia that still exists in ever-dwindling portions of the country. And, most importantly, it’s a brilliant showcase for one of the best surfers in the world today. Take a look, and go see it when it opens in wide release.

  • Share/Bookmark
Sep 222009

After traveling to most of the best surf spots in the world, I know firsthand that guys like this actually DO exist … en mass. And sadly, most of them are American.

Sigh.

  • Share/Bookmark
Sep 212009

Much like Punxsutawney Phil, Seer of Seers, Prognosticator of all Prognosticators, who entrances and blesses us all with his presence, and prescience, only rarely — I now do the same.

The long wait is over. I’m back. And my return will be … wait for it … wait for it …
legend.gif

Oh, and here’s a clip from the other night’s Emmy Awards. It’s kinda okay, too.

  • Share/Bookmark